Saturday, March 19, 2011

Return to Rajahmundry

I had the best day, and the worst day all at once. It was the best day because I was presented with a truly unique experience, that pushed my comfort levels, and shattered some of my fears. But the events that followed however pushed me too far. I'm a relatively private person, and am told often by my loved ones that I keep too much inside. That day I found myself in rare occasion of genuinely wanting and needing to talk to someone, but was in a place where no one could speak enough English to really listen to what I had to say. It was a horrible feeling to have no choice but to keep everything inside. Although it was only a day I had to wait before I could talk about it, the hours passed painfully slow, each thought and each second tainted with confusions, shock, and anger.

My research has been geared toward learning about the death rituals of the Hindus. This research involved many interviews with ritualists, and other people involved in the practices of the Hindus. Some of my research allowed me to observe and document some of these practices, including observing a cremation.

The man who oversees the cremation
Krishnayya's Aunt and a photo of her Late Husband

On Monday I returned to Rajahmundry to continue my research that I had started on my first trip to Rajahmundry. The first few days were full of interviews with ritualists, workers at the cemetery, and the wife of the chairman of Kailasbhoomi (the Hindu cemetery I am studying). On Wednesday, the site director Krishnayya returned to Vizag so he could continue making final preparations for his trip to America in a few days.
The usual Hindu Cemetery

Kailasbhoomi
It was recommended by the Chairman of Kailasbhoomi that I spend some time at the cemeteries and observe its workings, so I chose to stay in Rajahmundry for another day or two, to do so. Thursday morning I went to the north side cemetery first. Already two bodies were being burned, which as odd as it sounds, I was happy to see. The families were in the designated area for them to wait and watch, as is usual. Not much would be more distracting than a random white girl walking by, so I stayed on the sides out of respect for the ceremony that was taking place.There was some construction still taking place in the area I was standing. Two men approached me, saying they were the contractors, and we conversed briefly. They saw I was watching, and told me I could go closer. I was hesitant still, because they families were still in the "observatory" (the best word I could use to describe it), and I wasn't sure how they would feel about me getting any closer, especially when I have a large camera strapped around my neck. The contractors saw no problem with it, and took me right up to the burning area. This alone was a very rare thing to be able to do, as there is much left undone on research of the Hindu death rituals. Again, I was surprised when the contractors encouraged me to take photos--Krishnayya had told me to not take photos if there was a cremation going on, which is completely understandable. I confirmed with them that it was okay, and they in full confidence said it was okay. I snapped away.

These photos and experiences are more graphic in nature, and so to be sensitive to my followers who may not wish to see these things, I created Abusurd Alacrity Uncut as a way of publishing the parts of my research and photos that are more mature in nature.

Being forced to hold everything in, I want to lay everything out, the way things were and are still. 'Uncut' is a blog that is completely open and blatantly honest in my thoughts and experiences as they occurred, and can contain some mild swearing and content of sensitive subject matter, and mature in nature. These are the things that do not belong on my original blog.

I would not want to push any of you, my reader's, boundaries or comfort levels. I would only encourage you to read the other blog if you feel comfortable with it. If you feel that you are, you can click this link: http://absurdalacrityuncut.blogspot.com.
On a final note I would like to thank my readers. Thank you all your support and interest in what I've been doing for the last three months. I only have 3 weeks left, which is hard to believe. Time has never flown by faster. The rest of my time here is going to be filled with studying for my Telugu final, and a final hurrah by making a trip to Darjeeling next week. It should be quite a final adventure, and I'm excited to tell you all about it.

Krishnayya's Uncle in the slums of Rajahmundry

One of the most pitiful street puppies I've seen yet
Krishnayya's "never wife" who is now married to his Uncle

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